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West Indies Island News

Mollymawk Caribbean Newsletter: Tuesday 5th March


3.00 pm Tuesday 5th March. Well, here we are in Guadaloupe - to be specific, in Port Plaisance Marina Bas du Fort, next to the capital, Point a Pitre. Yes, a marina - tied up (stern on for my matelots amies) on a pontoon, so free to come and go individually again, enjoy the showers, internet, phone, laundry and loads of bars and restaurants.

The weather is mixed - there is a low pressure system south west of us and a high north east, so we have quick downpours then sun then wind etc. and a sea of 12 feet or more. But who cares?

We arrived after lunch yesterday - for the first time we were out of ice on board so Dave and I were like rats up a drain pipe when we arrived for a very quick slurp of Stella Artois in the nearest bar.

Since leaving Dominca we stopped over (for two nights) on the Iles des Saintes (part of Guadeloupe), anchored off their capital, Bourg de Saintes - a delightful two days. We wined and dined, went hiking up hills, swam on dangerous beaches (unknowingly) - another real chill-out time (a strange statement in this temperature).

In between we have had some hairy sailing, against the wind, sometimes with two reefs in the main (i.e a lot less than maximum sail area): yesterday was seven hours to reach here, with a major tack included - as the crow flies it was 19 miles but we had to travel 31.

Our plans over the next few days are: leave the marina tomworrow afternoon, anchor after motoring for an hour for the evening amongst the mangroves at Point de la Gabarre, so that the next morning (Thursday) we can at 5.00 am when the road bridge is lifted, enter the River Salee which bisects the island of Guadeloupe (it's a very narrow river and only seven feet deep - should be yet another new experience); emerge from there on the north of Guadeloupe and set off for Antigua.

But now a major Newsletter announcement: I shall soon be handing over this publication to the deputy editor, Dave, as I am only a week or so away from leaving the Mollymawk. Boo hoo. I've already had a little chat to my lovely Peggy and she says she needs me home just a bit - but only to do some gardening by the sounds of it. Still, that comes into the category of being wanted I suppose.

God knows what Dave will do to the quality of this publication. He can't even spell - there'll be favors instead of favours, labors not labours, and so on. And I don't suppose for a minute that he'll maintain the editorial integrity which has become a hallmark of these newsletters under my gaurdianship.

So now my personal thoughts turn to home. My first cuddle with Peg. My first warm pint of Pedigree (these two major pleasures will occur in either order - it depends if the pub is open when I arrive in the village), prepared with loving care by Jason, in the Fox and Hounds, Shenstone. Served with a quip by our Australian barlady (there's that oxymoron again). And a little chat with swimming and slimming Doreen and a sharp bit of Black Country banter from Ken. And then of course there'll be the homecoming party organised by Stan - but who'll be paying? Will he put his hand in his pocket reluctantly once more?

And Geoff will be there to discuss the intricacies of my new sailing experiences (especially the ones involving anchoring), with la grande bouche on hand to lovingly give me earache once again (be gentle with me Rose, I'll need a period of re-entry before I can once more cope). And the lunchtime chats with Joan and Bill. And the smells and education from David. And John's dog eating his biscuits, with John's 'phone ringing as usual, and Mike and Sue adding quality to the whole ambience. And catching up with the village gossip from the Kingies. (Do you know, Kingy, I've smoked more than 200 packets of duty free Hamlet since I set out - and I haven't even been there to buy my daily Telegraph from you. In fact, I haven't read a paper since I left England.)

Come to think of it, with all that to look forward to, I must be mad to return so soon. The skipper is naturally desperate for me to stay - he and Dave will be on board through till mid April when they return the boat to Trinidad, and everyone who knows me will appreciate their desire for me to do that with them.

Enough of that. I have one personal pleasure to look forward to in Antigua. I have been there twice before, and there is a bar at Nelson's dockyard manned by Jim. We have had two great evenings (Nov 2000 and Feb 2001) so far and I plan the third this time. It will be one of life's pleasures if once more after this time 12 months as I approach the bar he says "hello Dave".

The deputy editor will let you know.

It only remains for me to say a very big thank you to the skipper and Dave for their forebearance and for their company. This trip has been yet another total enjoyment for me like the previous voyages I have had the good fortune to make, all with those who were previously complete strangers. I look forward to more of the same.

Coxy.


NEWSLETTERS
Trinidad to Grenada, plugged loo, Pappy's: Monday 4th February

Grenada, Carraicou to St. Vincent and the Grenadines: Thursday Feb 7th

Union Island, Castella's, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Tobago Cays

Wallilabou, Bequia, Vieux Fort, a typical day, run over while in the dingy

St. Lucia, Marigot Bay, Soufriere, Rodney Bay, mooring knot comes loose

Martinique, St. Pierre, Mount Pelee

Dominica, Emerald Pool, Trafalgar Falls, Bay Leaf Oil extraction, Granny Jemima

The River Sallee, Guadaloupe to Antigua, Nelsons Dockyard

Antigua, Shirly Heights, St. Johns

St. James Club on Antigua, Nevis, Killer Bee's at Sunny's, Satia

St. Barts....aaaaah St. Barts, and Anguilla

British Virgin Isles, Foxy's on Jost Van Dyke, Tortolla, Virgin Gorda, Deadman's Cove, snokling on Sea Dog Island, Billy Bones on Norman Island

The showers of the Carribean!!!

Final Edition - St. John's and then back to Trinidad


Caribbean Sailing / Next Newsletter