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West Indies Island News

Mollymawk Caribbean Newsletter: Thursday 21st February


Soufriere turned out, largely, to be a dissappointment. A new road is being built along the front, so currently there's lots of noise and dust; it is very much a shanty town (apart from a pretty big Catholic church stuck in the muddle); the snorkelling proved poor; there is no dinghy dock; and bars, restaurants,'phone and internet facilities leave a lot to be desired. Also, the people here in St Lucia seem less friendly then St Vincent and the Grenadines and of a different ancestory - they are probably descended from different African tribes.

Anyway, we managed to 'have a nice day' yet again - with all of us resting for the evening competition. And what a contest this is turning out to be: Dennis won for Canada, thus breaking the stranglehold of the superpower and the motherland.

Talking about Dennis: his departure (on Saturday, not Friday as I previously thought) is going to be a sad occassion for several reasons. Firstly, disbandonment of the International Chase the Lady Competition. Secondly, he is truly, like the skipper, one of life's gentlemen - they epitomise one of the great pleasures of taking the risk of sailing with strangers (as compared to Dave who reminds one of the opposite). Thirdly, after 12 days with us he's nearly a fully trained member of the crew - for instance, it was a full two days ago that he fully mastered making tea and coffee totally unaided - all that investment will now go to waste.

We left Soufriere early yesterday morning for what turned out to be a great day, with me, Coxy, winning the prize back from Dave of Mollymawk Plonker - more of that later. We started by motoring round the point to Anse Chastanet, a small bay dominated by a swish hotel of the same name - Dennis stayed here 20 or so years ago so went off (in the dinghy, on his own, with only the oars for propulsion - the growing confidence of a nascent mariner) to revisit it. The rest of us went for a snorkel, which turned out to be very good - clear water, some coral, and lots of fish in great variety. Would you believe that we can identify having seen the following species of fish so far amongst others: spotted moray, trumpetfish, sand diver, squirrel fish - several types, coney, red hind, copper sweeper, tomtate, yellow goat fish, cherubfish, foureye butterflyfish, yellowtail damsel fish, yellowhead wrasse, spotted parrotfish, smooth trunk fish, spiny puffer, flying gurnard, sergeant major and blue chromis: and of course several types of coral - elkhorn, finger, brain, pillar, fire and common sea fan.

Then off we went, at about 11.00 am, some five miles up the coast to Anse Cochon, yet another superb little bay with its own hotel - the rooms are pretty individual chalets scattered up the hillside. Yet another good snorkel, then an invasion by day trippers. We had at one time three big catamarans and a big old three-masted sailing ship for neighbours, disgorging scores of happy (mostly white/pink/red ) people into the sea for their programmed 45 minutes each. We are obviously entering the tourist area bigtime here.

It was here I collected my plonker award. We (or rather I, to be specific) had tied up to a bouy (boo-ee), had eaten lunch (the last, thank god, of all that tuna) and had settled down for half an hour, when Dave announced that we had come adrift. We were floating freely towards the rocks and had to motor back to our previous position and tie up again. Now, for my friends at the Fox and certainly my crew of yesteryear, plus my new American friends who have been avidly following these newsletters, this may seem a reversion to my old ways rather than a momentary abberation by a highly skilled and experienced yachtsman. Well, you can think what you bloodywell like - I've already had enough stick off dave the Yank to last me a lifetime, and I swear that if he tells me he saved the boat singlehandedly one more time I'll throttle him. (As compared to the skipper: I can't believe he took this so calmly.) I just wish to say that throughout this voyage, either or both of me and Dave have been at the ready like coiled springs to deal with any eventuality and this was just one of many - it so happens that this time we were 5 minutes at the most from total disaster but that doesn't in my book make it a big deal.

And then off we went to Marigot Bay, another 4 miles up the coast which is where we now are. It is a truly delightful anchorage - I can't think of a nicer one that I've visited anywhere in the Caribbean. There a loads of yachts here very close together, a charter company's fleet (the Moorings), a hotel, some gorgeous houses on the hillside, bars, shops and joy upon joy, showers with hot water. (The only negative is that we can't snorkel in here - it's too crowded/dirty.) As we say in Birmingham, England, a pig in shit couldn't be happier than me at the moment. After a lovely evening involving a shower, drinks and a meal last night, we are now all just lazing around. The skipper's playing with a hole in the dinghy (well, he is 75), Dennis and Dave are ashore, and it's only 9.00 am. What we shall do to fill up the day I haven't a clue. But I bet it will be hot and sunny again - although we have been having a fair bit of cloud of late.

Oh I forgot to tell you something which I'm sure will interest you. We've had an outbreak of diarrhoea (see, I can spell when I put my mind to it) on board. Cause: unknown, although Dave did present us with tuna stew on Tuesday night. At 4.30 am this morning I had my latest attack and found at the appropriate point in the necessary proceedings that there was only 6 inches (2 squares) of loo paper available (the rest of the stock residing under Dennis's bed). (Do you ever have the presence of mind in such circumstances to check loo paper availability before proceedings start proper?) I supplemented this with paper towel from the galley and then had the presence of mind not to throw that down the loo as it would for sure have blocked the dreaded flap valve.

Two major disasters avoided in one day - I'm pushing my luck.

Friday 22nd February

2.00 pm It was after lunch yesterday that we decided to sail up from Marigot Bay to Rodney Bay, our last stop in St Lucia, only a few miles up the coast. This is a big and handsome bay, and we headed straight for a berth in the marina - and there aren't that many marinas yet in the Caribbean. The ultimate in luxury: we can just step off the boat to hot showers, telephones, internet, bars, laundry, shops any time we individually like. I've had two showers already.

After a meal last night we had yet another round of the International Chase the Lady Competition. However, I am going to say no more about it because the intense level of competitive rivalry that it has generated is becoming counterproductive to teamworking on the boat and even worse embarrassment for the skipper. (And if this makes you think Dave won so I've lost, that's your own unsubstantiated conclusion.) The same goes for for the 'current plonker' award - except to say enigmatically that after what occurred yesterday I may not still be the holder.

This morning we all caught a taxi and visited Castrie, the capital of St Lucia. We spent 1 hour seeing all that there was to see, Dave and I dived into the nearest bar and the skipper and Dennis went back to the boat. There are in fact two memorable points. Firstly, today is the 23rd anniversary of St Lucia's independence (from Britain) and Dave and I went up to Cultural Park to see the colourful ceremonies being conducted involving beautifully and brighty dressed schoolchildren. Geoff will remember that last year we visited Grenada's equivalent - to be exact, on 8th February 2001 (it's still marked in my Sailor's Guide which we are using). Secondly, that Castries boasts two Nobel Prize Winners, after one of whom the main square in the town is named - Derek Walcott (he received it in 1992, the same year independence was granted).

We went to a lovely little bar for lunch run by Andrew from Leamington Spa, just 20 miles from where I live. He is apparently an ace fisherman and like me just could not believe that Dave hasn't caught a fish yet. He analysed his technique and suggested that Dave try tying an elastic band on to his line next time to keep the lure below the surface. So Dave is on to a loser both ways now - if he does manage to catch anything, it will all be down to the advice given by my fellow Brit, and if he doesn't it's continued superpower incompetence.

As I type, Dave is asleep (he's not much company most of the time) and the other two have gone off on a trek to Pigeon Island National Park - including its fort. Those two 75 year olds certainly have stamina.

Tomorrow marks the start of another chapter in our voyage. Dennis leaves us for home, and we sail off to Martinique some 25 miles away. Martinique is part of France, so we'll have to get used to spending Euro's and perhaps talking a bit of French to the natives.

In the meantime we shall enjoy chilling out in this marina - must go and collect the laundry, ring Peg, etc etc.

Finally in this newsletter: to cheer you all up a bit back in England and northern USA: it rained heavily in the night, it is cool (by Caribbean standards) and cloudy - but our bodies can do with a bit of a rest from the heat and the sun.


Saturday 23rd February


6.30 am STOP PRESS: My cup overfloweth: for Den's farewell dinner, we went to the Razmataz, a Balti Indian restaurant. (For my American audience: Balti curries were invented in Birmingham England.) Checked pedigree of chef: he came from Manchester - close enough. Good meal - and we've brought enough back in the doggy bag for another. Played final of International Chase the Lady Competition and after some realignment of the teams, I can divuge that the final score is: USA 3, British Commonwealth 4. Bad luck Dave - you must learn from the masters how to make friends internationally. Post game: Dave and I had a few drinks at the bar where kareoke was in progress - have you ever seen someone trying to do karoeke rap? Highly amusing. Must be off to Martinique now. End.


NEWSLETTERS
Trinidad to Grenada, plugged loo, Pappy's: Monday 4th February

Grenada, Carraicou to St. Vincent and the Grenadines: Thursday Feb 7th

Union Island, Castella's, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Tobago Cays

Wallilabou, Bequia, Vieux Fort, a typical day, run over while in the dingy

St. Lucia, Marigot Bay, Soufriere, Rodney Bay, mooring knot comes loose

Martinique, St. Pierre, Mount Pelee

Dominica, Emerald Pool, Trafalgar Falls, Bay Leaf Oil extraction, Granny Jemima

The River Sallee, Guadaloupe to Antigua, Nelsons Dockyard

Antigua, Shirly Heights, St. Johns

St. James Club on Antigua, Nevis, Killer Bee's at Sunny's, Satia

St. Barts....aaaaah St. Barts, and Anguilla

British Virgin Isles, Foxy's on Jost Van Dyke, Tortolla, Virgin Gorda, Deadman's Cove, snokling on Sea Dog Island, Billy Bones on Norman Island

The showers of the Carribean!!!

Final Edition - St. John's and then back to Trinidad


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